Lumbini, the birthplace of Buddha, is among the most sacred pilgrimages for Buddhists and spiritualists across the world. Lumbini was declared a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1997.  

I was excited because I was going abroad. Technically, it was a road trip to Nepal via Gorakhpur, Uttar Pradesh. I was so looking forward to have a stamp on my passport, but Indians don’t need a visa to enter this landlocked South Asian country nestled in the Himalayas. Therefore, no stamp. We just breezed into Nepal after a brief stop at the exit point at Gorakhpur.

Borders are interesting, but people in Nepal speak Hindi, so we didn’t have any language issues. Most people were walking in and out of the entry points. Our stay was at a resort in Bhairahawa district Rupandehi, the gateway to Lumbini.

While Nepal is more famous among those who want to climb Mount Everest, for me the birthplace of the Buddha was a high point. The epitome of peace, compassion and non-violence, he was born Siddhartha Gautam (623 BC) to King Śuddhodana, leader of the Shakya clan of Kosala state, and his queen Maya. However, destiny took its course and Siddhartha renounced the world and became Buddha or the enlightened one, becoming the founder of Buddhism.

Buddha Poornima or Vesak is celebrated across South Asia, Southeast Asia, Tibet and Mongolia, to commemorates the birth, enlightenment (Bodhi Ñāṇa), and death (Parinirvāna) of Buddha. This falls every year in the months of April/May.

Lumbini is located in the Terai plains of southern Nepal, which doesn’t have mountains but lots of mustard fields. From our resort, Lumbini was a 30-minute drive.

The Buddha has been a changemaker for millions of souls, turning them into compassionate people. Giving up wars, Mauryan Emperor Ashoka became his follower after the bloodshed at Kalinga. In 249 BC, he erected a sandstone pillar at Lumbini.

Like all places where Buddhism prevails, a line of fluttering flags greeted us, signalling the entry into Lumbini. Many nations house their monasteries in Lumbini.  There are two monastic zones with a canal dividing the two. Boat rides are common in this canal.

The eastern monastic zone has Theravadin monasteries. The western zone has Mahayana and Vajrayana monasteries. A signboard pointed out the Vipassana Centre. Far away, a white stupa, the peace stupa was visible.

We didn’t explore the monasteries, but a huge bell near the lamp of peace caught my eye. This was the Triratna Peace Bell. An inscription, hidden under the trees, said, “…this bell invokes the blessings of wisdom and compassion that liberate beings from sarvam dukham and allow peace to flow…” I was awed by the huge bell with inscriptions, but couldn’t find anything to ring it with.

The flames of the peace lamp flickered due to the wind, but it did not stop burning. It was lit by Prince Gyanendra Bir Bikram Shah Dev on November 1, 1986 to commemorate the International Year of Peace. The flame was brought from United Nations (New York) to spread the message of peace and harmony among the global community.

Bowing to the great spirit of Lumbini, I turned towards the passage leading to the complex housing the ruins of the Maya Devi Temple, Shakya Tank, Ashoka pillar, remains of Buddhist viharas (monasteries, 3rd century BC to the 5th century AD) and remains of Buddhist stupas (memorial shrines, 3rd century BC to 15th century AD).

Before entering the complex, I bowed to the shiny gold statue of Baby Buddha, gifted by Thailand in 2012. With less habitation, the region is also a crane sanctuary. Birders’ visit often, I was told.

Shoes kept in a rack, wearing cover on the feet, we walked into the peaceful garden. The Maya Devi Temple is a brick structure in a cross-wall system.  Legend says Queen Mayadevi had given birth while standing. We filed in a queue, walking slowly, till we found ourselves in front of white stone encased in glass. This was the birth spot. And right above this, was the nativity sculpture showing the birth of Buddha.  We didn’t get much time to pray as the temple was about to close.

Outside, a sage was sitting under the sacred Bodhi tree. A lamp was lit and incense was burning. A little to the other side, devotees from Thailand were praying, the sound of their chants spreading under the open sky. They were near the sandstone Ashoka pillar with its Pali inscription in Brahmi script.  Some had even offered coins and currency notes.

The inscription said, “When King Devanampriya Priyadarsin had been anointed twenty years, he came himself and worshipped (this spot) because the Buddha Shakyamuni was born here. He caused to be made a stone bearing a horse and caused a stone pillar to be set up, (in order to show) that the Blessed One was born here. He made the village of Lummini free of taxes, and paying (only) an eighth share (of the produce).” — The Rummindei Edict, one of the Minor Pillar Edicts of Ashoka.

Dusk had become night, and we had to head back to the resort. It would have been good to have more time to explore the World Peace Pagoda, Myanmar Golden Temple and enjoyed a walk in the monastic zone.

Even as I retraced my footsteps, the sound of chants kept ringing in my ears, travelling through the night breeze.

How to reach Lumbini

There are flights from Delhi to Gorakhpur, which is a four-hour drive from Lumbini.  

Indians don’t need a visa to enter Nepal, but must carry a valid photo ID, namely passport, voter ID or Aadhar card.

Photography inside the Maya Devi temple is not allowed.  

As a spiritual place, Buddhism encourages silence, so walking slowly and absorbing more will heighten your senses in the Lumbini complex.