An unforgettable adventure, kayaking in midst of a forest, exploring a rubber plantation and spotting birds. My learning about the hidden wonders of the forest ecosystem, a perfect retreat for nature lovers and outdoor enthusiasts.

Working with travel magazines has been the fun part of being a journalist. It ignited my love for the outdoors and introduced me to many things I wouldn’t have thought I was capable of. Travel journalism is more about experiences than moolah and those I have gathered along in this 25-year-old journey.

In 2016, I was sent to Kerala for a preview of the Kochi Biennale and also to Thattekkad Bird Sanctuary. While I obviously liked the idea of staying in a luxury tent, Hornbill Camp, on the shores of the Periyar River, I didn’t know that I would see a different version of me emerge in this avian sanctuary. Since then, this tiny fragment has become a larger me—someone who loves winged friends, green lands and enjoys observing them in solitude.

Thattekkad, meaning flat forest in Malayalam, is home to over 300 avian species, besides the flora and wildlife. It is thanks to the efforts of Dr Salim Ali, India’s famed ornithologist, that this 25 sq km land was declared a bird sanctuary. As per his account, this is the richest bird habitat on peninsular India, located on the tributaries of the Periyar river. It is also the first sanctuary in Kerala. Till then, I didn’t realise that for birders, this bird sanctuary, also named Dr Salim Ali Bird Sanctuary, was a holy grail.

At the camp, enjoying my tea in silence, I watched the green shadows playing over the Periyar river, hoping to catch a sight of the elephants on the other shore. Nothing, but my day was full of good outdoor activities.

Early in the morning, the naturalist Abhilash V.S., guided us on a birding trail, a short distance from the camp. This meant a small climb up the rocks where many birders sat with their telescopic lenses. Well, to be fair, I wasn’t a gadget freak or a camera person then. I lived life word-size in those days!

We sat down for a while on the rocks, gazing at the expert photographers, until we saw the flight of the Malabar Grey Hornbills amid shrubs and trees. I think that winged wonder is deeply imprinted in my memory.

Much smaller birds flitted about, but my untrained eyes took time to figure out the swift movements. As a beginner, I learned to hear the calls, watch the fluttering leaves, turn my eyes towards empty branches to see wings, tails and beaks. It was a matter of few minutes but the learning has become a habit now.

On that trip we also saw a pair of migratory Black Baza, Orange-headed Thrush, Black-naped Oriole, Greater Racket-tailed Drongo and the Indian Pitta. But I don’t recall these at all and had to look up the web for them now. I do recall seeing a big spider and since then have appreciated their role in the web of life along with beetles and bees. Looking back, I must have appeared quite odd and ignorant to the naturalist, who grew up amid the green environs.

He, then, took us to another trail, teaching us about treasures on the forest floor such as elephant dung, fungi and mushrooms. We reached a denser part and amid the green foliage, hidden away from the world, slept a Sri Lankan Frogmouth couple or better known as Ceylon Frogmouth, cuddled wing-towing. As the photographer zoomed in, the naturalist warned us not to make the slightest sound or step over dry leaves. If disturbed, this pair would change its habitat. Also, the nocturnal birds often fall into the hands of poachers.

That afternoon, I got an idea of how to row a kayak, the narrow boat through the still waters. As I slowly turned the oars, enjoying the sight of Red-wattled Lapwings, my instructor pointed out the elephant dung on the shore, but no elephants could be seen from the lagoon.

Then, we went with the naturalist for a walk in the rubber plantation. The jungle babblers began their cacophony as we walked into their habitat. The rubber extraction process was an interesting one to watch: rubber trunks were slashed slightly; cups were attached to collect sap and plastic umbrellas were hung over them to prevent the sap from drying. The rubber came out slowly. I didn’t watch out for the brown ants on the floor and got stung.

Then we got an introduction to the clove plant. The naturalist crushed some leaves and gave them to us, the distinct fragrance of cloves tingled our noses. Other fruits and spices growing on the rubber plantation were pineapple, jackfruit, coffee beans, cocoa pods, cashewnut, betelnut, long pepper and nutmegs.

A trip to the wild can never be complete without an abandoned structure in the middle, and here it was an old Shiva temple.

The only rule that you need to remember when entering the jungle is to be silent, not touch or eat the fruits, and leaves and watch out for the crawlies on the trail.

How to reach Thattekkad Bird Sanctuary

Thattekkad is 44 km from Kochi’s Nedumbassery airport.

The nearest railway station is at Aluva (48 km), from where one can take a bus or hire a taxi.

More Attractions in the region

Rent a cycle, go trekking, kayaking, birding and on wildlife tours. Among the more frequently sighted birds are are the black-headed oriole, bronzed drongo, ash tail, kingfishers, chestnut-headed bee-eater and emerald dove. There are leopards, elephants, sloth bears and porcupines in the forest.

Nearby are the Cheria Pally Church, Bhoothathankettu Dam and stunning waterfalls.

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