A symphony between man and nature, Meghalaya is the land of pineapples, flowing waterfalls, crystal clear lakes, unique flora and indigenous culture

White cotton clouds, hanging low on the mountains, swirl like a lady in a ballroom. Little ones lingering on the edges complete the choreography of this natural dance over the Himalayas. Meghalaya, the abode of clouds, is a mesmerising maiden beauty. A perfect mountain getaway to meet your better self and enjoy slow experiences.

The wettest region in the country with 70 per cent forest cover, Meghalaya was carved out of the erstwhile state of Assam in January 1972. Fortunately, it is not a heavily inhabited state.

In the capital Shillong, all the modern amenities are available but the smaller, quieter parts still run on cash and word of mouth. The three main regions of Meghalaya are Khasi, Jaintia and Garo hills.

The drive from Guwahati to Shillong is lined with fruit vendors selling pineapple. After crossing a lush landscape lined with lotus ponds, you see the flowering pink cherry blossom trees that line the entry to this verdant Himalayan state.

I have visited Meghalaya twice. First in 2016, on a 10-day driving trip by Mahindra Adventure, an experiential division of the Mahindra & Mahindra Group. During this trip, I went to the more popular parts: Dawki Lake, Mawlynnong (the cleanest village in Asia) and Riwai living root bridge.

Later, I went for the Meghalayan Age 2020 festival, curated by E-factor Entertainment under the aegis of Meghalaya Tourism, glamping at Jaintia hills. Besides the sightseeing, the highlight was the caving experience.

Meghalaya is a futuristic matrilineal society

“The society here is matrilineal,” explained Phang, the young guide, who had travelled with us for the caving experience in Lakadong area. Well, considering Mother Nature is the queen here, it’s only fitting that the society follows her call.

In Meghalaya, the youngest daughter inherits everything and looks after the parents too. The children carry the mother’s surname. It truly is a futuristic society, living in perfect harmony with the mother principle of nourishment.

Natives speak Khasi but English is common as well. Of course, in the interiors, the Khasi dialect varies and even townies have a problem understanding that, as I discovered during a market tour with Priyanka Mawrie, another young guide.

Walking around Shillong

Shillong, the capital, has many pubs and a vibrant life. It is also very crowded. “Meghalayans love rock music,” said Phang. I did experience that during both my trips.

The prime market area is Police Bazaar with many mom ‘n’ pop stores selling local pickles and cookies. I even saw a lot of bamboo products, orchids, even a dosa and chaat corner. We tried the katori chaat, samosa chaat, chamcham and cutting chai. Then with little room left, we found the famous momos.

Mawlynnong, Asia’s cleanest village

This village does make you wonder why people in other parts don’t emulate this model. Bamboo dustbins line the road and the community works together. A lot of can be achieved with helping hands, as we see in this little village.

Sunshine, flowers, bamboo homes and stalls, and women selling souvenirs are a common sight for the tourists. With 90 families thriving on agriculture and tourism, this is a friendly, happy community. It serves you home-cooked food and doesn’t bargain or cheat. The do’s and don’ts for the visitors are written on a board. If you throw trash around, these are pointed out to you. The public toilet is as clean as possible, and it’s chargeable.

Riwai Living Root Bridge

This natural marvel is close to the village of Mawlynnong. It is a ticketed entry. At the parking area, we had slices of fresh pineapple and kiwis.

And then walked the muddy path to find the entangled roots creating a natural walkway. Below the bridges flows water and huge rocks line the stream bed. It is among the most breathtaking natural sites on the planet.

I half expected elves and hobbits to come springing out of the trees and squirrels demanding nuts and birds sitting on my head. It does make you feel like Alice in Wonderland.

Boating in Dawki Lake

The drive from Shillong to Dawki Lake on the border of India and Bangladesh is green. The people on the Bangladesh side were celebrating their Friday holiday. Some dead branches and a boat with an old fisherwoman marked the border.

A short round of the lake in the boat and I saw all hues of emerald. Look into the water and you can see your reflection in it, the crystal-clear bottom is a delight.

There are water sports at Dawki Lake such as kayaking, scuba diving but you would need to go with a trained guide and instructor.  

Serene Tyrshi Falls

Tyrshi waterfall makes for a good picnic spot with a beautiful view of the paddy valley. The walk through the red ground is a rejuvenating one. It is a vista that you won’t forget easily.

Nartiang Monoliths

Nartiang was the summer capital of the Jaintia rulers. The sun sets early in the northeast and we were short on time. We just about managed to catch the fantastic view for a few seconds and hurriedly walked through the 100m complex. These monoliths are said to be the tallest in the world.

“The monoliths were a meeting ground,” said our guide Priyanka Mawrie, “and marked the rites of passage of the Jaintia kings. People would gather to have tea here. Even now a festival is held annually to celebrate the Jaintia kings and these monoliths.” Now, this is a graveyard of sorts.

Most of the place looked like a round table with chairs all around. Later, I came to know that the tall upright stones were known as ‘mehris’ or ‘Ki Moo Shynrang,’ represent the male. The flat table stone was ‘Ki Moo Kynthai’ or the female. Folks say that people in that era were as strong and tall as giants.

Some experts are of the belief that the monoliths marked the establishment of the market from Raliang to Nartiang. A legend explains this. On a rainy afternoon Luh Lyngshkor, a Jaintia ruler was caught in a heavy shower and sought something to save himself. He approached an old woman at Raliang, a village near Nartiang, for a bamboo to protect himself. Eyeing the well-built ruler, the woman told him to use a giant stone slab at the market as cover. Luh went to the market, picked the giant stone slab and reached Nartiang. And the place where he kept the giant stone slab became the market. Eyeing the big stone, I thought, it didn’t seem plausible. But then legends are not based on visual truth.

The sun had set and we realised that we couldn’t make it to the Durga Temple in the neighbourhood.

Local Market, Lakadong

We had seen a weekly market on the way to Nartiang and explored that. The slush of the rain made it difficult to walk through the narrow paths between stalls.

Priyanka took us inside with the help of a young girl who had come there with her parents to sell some spices and vegetables.

Lakadong area is very well known for its turmeric. Black sesame is also used a lot in Khasi cuisine, so we bought small packets of these two. We also tasted a black bean sauce which certainly is an acquired taste, locally made muffins and lots of green shoots. The vendors came from the neighbouring villages and the market offered everything from vegetables, meats, to household goods, bamboo baskets and sitting stools or muras. I would have liked to bring these back to Delhi along with the fern plants, but I didn’t know the airport rules.

The journey to Meghalaya was a green wonder. Wherever I turned, there was beauty and vibrancy and it was a recall on how we must keep the environment clean and pure. It was also reminiscent of the indigenous and slow way of living, where everything is about balance.

How to reach Meghalaya

There are flights to Guwahati, Assam, from all over the country. Then you drive to Meghalaya where the largest town is Shillong. 

Where to stay in Meghalaya

For within the main city of Shillong, Hotel Poinisuk. It has all the major amenities and is close to all the city’s attractions such as The Cathedral of Mary Help of Christians, Don Bosco Centre for Indigenous Cultures. It also has a travel desk for helping guests with sightseeing and planning.

Alternatively, you could stay a few days at Ri Kynjai resort near Shillong. Meaning serenity by the lake, it is located on the outskirts, amid 42 acres of forest, overlooking the man-made Umiam Lake. A red-tailed squirrel and blue bird at sunrise marked a beautiful day for me, besides the beautiful flora and tranquil vibes. Good food, spa and even a shop to buy some handcrafted souvenirs along with bamboo and pine interiors, this has 17 rooms.

Best season to visit Meghalaya

Between October and June

This blog post is part of the blog challenge ‘Blogaberry Dazzle’ hosted by Cindy D’Silva and Noor Anand Chawla in collaboration with Outset Books.

This post is a part of Blogchatter Half Marathon 2023

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