Porbandar: Gandhi’s Birthplace, Bandhini Dreams, and Seaside Serenity

From the birthplace of Mahatma Gandhi to the lanes of bandhini and the serenity of Chowpatti Beach, Porbandar is Gujarat’s peaceful gem.

I have a special relationship with Mahatma Gandhi, though somewhat complicated. No, his spirit has never visited me and I have never met any of his family members. It’s something like Munnabhai MBBS (where Sanjay Dutt sees him at every corner).

It began with a fated magazine cover way back in 2001 or 2002 on which ‘Mahatma’ was misspelled. I was working for that magazine. After that for many years, on October 2, his birthday, I would often have to face some work emergency. It was spooky, maybe it was just my fear of errors or maybe his spirit did visit me.

So, to get over this superstition, I went to his resting place at Raj Ghat, Delhi, and prayed. Maybe it cleared up my fears or maybe it was just another superstition that helped me connect with his remarkable strength. I explored his ideology, until he was no longer just a historical figure or the face stamped on Indian currency. He became a living person again. At the Gandhi Museum on Ring Road, Raj Ghat, I heard his speeches. He represented strength and change, leading by example, choosing to remain out of power clutches and yet, being heard and respected all over the world.

I often wonder about his abilities to withstand the onslaught of humiliation. And a feeling of satisfaction fills me when I think of having visited his home in the coastal city of Porbandar, way back in 2010. As a traveller, I am not satisfied as I saw very little of Porbandar. But as an individual, it was a moment of truth. I chose peace over chaos in many ways from then on, saving my energy rather than confronting depending on the situation, and finding better solutions.

It was a one-day trip, on invitation by Gujarat Tourism, commemorating Martyrs’ Day, January 30, when he was assassinated in 1948 by Nathuram Godse. The sleepy port city is home to both Mahatma Gandhi and Lord Krishna’s friend, Sudama.

Here’s what I saw in the coastal Gujarati town:

Oil painting of Mahatma Gandhi and Kasturba Gandi, Kirti Mandir, Porbandar, Gujarat, India

Kirti Mandir: A Pilgrimage of Peace

This isn’t a traditional temple, but a home-turned-museum—the very spot where Mahatma Gandhi was born.

Vision of Unity: The complex embodies Gandhi’s vision of unity, incorporating elements from Hinduism, Buddhism, Jainism, Parsi, Christian, and Muslim traditions.
A Step Back in Time: Walking through the three-story haveli complex, which includes the family’s ancestral home (over 300 years old, purchased by his great-grandfather Harjivan Raidas Gandhi), is like time travel.
The Memorial: After the freedom struggle, when the Mahatma was released from the Aga Khan Palace in 1944 by the British Government, the people of Porbandar had decided to construct a memorial on his birthplace. The project was shaped by the then Maharaja Natavarsinha and philanthropists Raj Ratna Nanjibhai Kalidas Mehta and Santokbehn Mehta. They purchased the adjacent ancestral house and turned the entire complex into a memorial. It was inaugurated in 1950 by Sardar Vallabhbhai Patel.
Key Facts & Symbols:
- Look for the swastika marking the exact birth spot.
- The memorial stands 79 feet high, symbolizing Gandhi’s 79 years of life.
- In the center are life-sized oil paintings of Mahatma and Kasturba Gandhi, with the philosophy of ‘Truth’ and ‘Non-violence’ engraved in stone nearby.
- The museum showcases rare photographs, books, articles of khadi, and even the Kasturba-Mahila Library.
- You can even see Gandhi’s signed registration papers consenting to the sale of the property for the memorial.
- The rooftop offers an amazing, endless view of the sea.

Sudama Temple & Spiritual Heritage

After soaking in the history at Kirti Mandir, pay a visit to the temple dedicated to Sudama, the childhood friend of Lord Krishna. This temple celebrates their eternal bond, and values of humility and loyalty. You can walk through the maze to absolve yourself of sins here.

Explore other ancient sites like the 1600-year-old Khimeshwar Mahadev temple and the Chadeshwar Mahadev and Ajani Mataji’s temple, believed to date back to the Pandava era.

The Allure of Bandhini Sarees and Gujarati Snacks

The bustling market surrounding Kirti Mandir is a colourful feast.

Textile Treat: We got lured into the shops by the vibrant Bandhini sarees and materials, available at surprisingly nominal prices. The tie-dyed cotton, dotted with white patterns on vivid hues, make irresistible souvenirs of Saurashtra’s living craft heritage, starting at just ₹300.

Snacky treat at Khadi Bhandaar:

Stock up on quintessential Gujarati snacks like papads, sev, ganthia.
Don’t forget the regional pickles made of chanduo, athanu, and goondas.

You can even find the creamy Shrikhand at the Mother Dairy in the market.

Chowpatti Beach: Sunset and Serenity

A walk on Chowpatti beach as the sun sets turned out to be a rejuvenating experience.

You may catch local events, such as a sand art festival, where artists exhibit their creations.
Sip on nariyal paani (coconut water) while watching the waves, the distant lighthouse, and the flickering lights of coastal guard ships.

Hidden History and Nature’s Charm

Porbandar has deep archaeological and ecological connections which I heard about, but didn’t get to see.

The nearby regions hold the remains of a late Harappan settlement, dating back to the 16th – 14th century BC.
If you plan your visit during Krishna Janmashtami, you can witness a five-day cultural extravaganza organized on the beach.
Visit the Bird Sanctuary to spot various species like teals, fowls, flamingos, ibis, and curlews.
You can also explore the stars at the Nehru Planetarium Tara Mandir.

How to Reach Porbandar

By Air: The nearest major airport is Rajkot Airport (RAJ), about a 2 to 3-hour drive (approximately 150 km). Alternatively, Sardar Vallabhbhai Patel International Airport in Ahmedabad (AMD) is a major hub, about a 6 to 7-hour drive away.
By Rail: Porbandar has its own well-connected railway station (PBR), linked by direct trains to major cities like Ahmedabad, Mumbai, and Delhi.
By Road: Accessible via excellent state highways. The journey from Ahmedabad to Porbandar (around 400 km) is smooth and easy. Buses and private taxis are readily available from all major cities in Gujarat.

Travel Quick Facts

Best Time to Visit: From August to March.
Where to Stay: Hotel Lila’s or explore heritage-focused stays in the city.

Local Transport

Auto-rickshaws, local taxis, and buses make getting around easy and affordable. Walking through the narrow lanes of the old town remains the best way to experience its charm.

This post is a part of Blogchatter Half Marathon 2025.