The sun shines on Ganga, Rishikesh, Uttarakhand, India, Image by Maxime David from Pixabay
Travel

Rishikesh: My First Meeting With Shiva & Ganga

Rishikesh. My first visit in the year 2000 was less about instant enlightenment and more about a tentative exploration of a world both ancient and new. Tasked with a work assignment alongside a seasoned photographer, I, a journalist and writer still finding my footing, embarked on a journey to this Himalayan foothill.

  1. Haridwar to Rishikesh
  2. On the Shores of the Ganga
  3. Ganga, the purifier
  4. Ferries, Aarti & Adventure
  5. Exploring Rishikesh: A Few Must-See Spots
  6. Getting To Rishikesh
  7. Finding a Place to Stay

There’s something about firsts—a naivety, awkwardness, an inexplicable nervousness. The idea of being out of your comfort zone without family and friends, stepping into an unknown city with a colleague. There’s a certain restlessness and uncertainty.

The year was 2000. I had started working in February 1999 and this was the first time, I was travelling out of Delhi for work with a photographer. My experience with writing was limited, and my brain capacity, an even more limited edition. I wasn’t the street-smart reporter, just someone who had ventured out of home after a long strange situation into an even more unplanned journey. I don’t think my biological years matched my worldliness, or rather lack of it.

My photographer colleague, Suman Sarkar, was like a chaperone. More experienced, having worked in a newspaper and surviving in Delhi after the close confines of Kolkata. He’s gone on to win many awards since then and settled in Jaipur now.

My travel tales, style, abilities, have sharpened since then. Actually, if I had to choose something I love writing on—it’s travel. Creative, sparkling, it sets me free, the abundant beauty of the planet is so enchanting and enticing.

Embarking on the first travelogue, this one’s got so much missing when it comes to planning your visit. But it’s the awkward attempt of someone who was keen on making sense of the place that changed her perspectives and travel hasn’t lost its magical sheen since then.  

I think Rishikesh was the first place where I realised that the concept of God as an invisible superpower who visited devotees in the form of an idol, wasn’t the ideal one. It was my first connect with Nature, and gentle power of waves.

The rhythmic waves of the Ganga had a hypnotising effect. We would sit quietly on the shore and lose ourselves in the expression that Ganga is—sacred to most, life giving to others, and fascinating wonder for me. Though, I never turned religious, I did fall in love with all things Nature and divine.

Haridwar to Rishikesh

Life in Rishikesh revolves round the Ganga and the ashrams. I think we took the Shatabdi to Haridwar and then the shared auto to Rishikesh. On the foothill of the mighty Himalayas, Rishikesh is an experience. The ride took us past the dense forest, lush foliage (which I today know as Rajaji National Park. The state hadn’t been divided into Uttarakhand then, it was still Uttar Pradesh).  

Our destination was Muni-ki-Reti, the shores far from the main town, where most of the well-known and not so well-known ashrams are located. We were staying at Parmarth Niketan. Our goal: interview Swami Chinmayanand, the head of the ashram. But he was travelling and we had a day to ourselves.

Parmarth Niketan, Rishikesh, Uttarakhand, India,Image by shad siddiqui from Pixabay

(Eventually, it was a good interview where he told me about his journey, translations of the Vedas, Puranas, Bhagvad Gita that they were doing, cleaning the road leading to the ashram and the Ganga. The ashram ran a Vedic gurukul and grew Ayurvedic plants. I recall bringing back gulkand from there. I was the chief guest for their famous Ganga aarti, a mindblowing experience.)

We got a room at the ashram, as we had informed them in advance. Refreshed, we headed outdoors. I just followed Suman because sometimes it’s okay to let the more experienced one lead.

On the Shores of the Ganga

The Ganga flows, unimpeded, singing the song of peace and love. We are in the lap of a spiritual land, made sacred by the tapasya of saints and sages down the ages.

This narrow road is full of shops. This marketplace catered to all the basic needs. Shops sold just about everything religious: books, idols, small souvenirs such as mini copper kalash, puja plates, diyas.

At every step, we encountered a saffron-clad sadhu or a priest. The ashrams rule the Ganga banks. And temples dot the skyline.

This small town truly lives up to its reputation as a major pilgrim centre. Standing at about 1,160 feet above sea level, it’s just a short 25 km trip from Hardwar.

Shiva statue on Ganga bank where evening aarti is spectacular, Parmarth Niketan, Rishikesh, Uttarakhand, India, Image by Ganapathi Brahm from Pixabay
Shiva statue on Ganga bank where evening aarti is spectacular, Parmarth Niketan, Rishikesh, Uttarakhand, India, Image by Ganapathi Brahm from Pixabay

Ganga, the purifier

In Rishikesh, the Ganga is special, for here she waits for her devotees to give them salvation. A dip in the holy waters will ensure a place in the heavens is the popular Hindu belief.

Ganga originated from Lord Shiva’s hair and is worshipped as a part of Shiva. She is the all-sustaining force for humans. And her ever-flowing waters can absorb and dissolve all the woes of mortal life.

Ferries, Aarti & Adventure

From Muni-ki-Reti, you can cross the river by ferry. It’s an exhilarating experience to cut across the swift flow of the water. Street children on the banks of the Ganga request you to buy aate-ki-goli, flour globules, to feed the fish that swim by your boat. Sadly, I did not see a single fish near the surface.

In the evening you can attend the famous aarti at Parmarth Niketan, or simply sit at the river bank gazing at the sunset reflected in the soothing waves. I liked both.

Around 16 km upstream is a small place called Shivpuri where water sports like river rafting are available.

Rishikesh is also the base point for travel to other pilgrim centres-Badrinath, Kedarnath, Gangotri and Yamunotri. I did get a chance to go to Uttarkashi in 2001.

Exploring Rishikesh: A Few Must-See Spots

Lakshman Jhula: Built in 1939, this bridge across the river is made of steel wires. With no pillar support, it sways from side to side.

Ram Jhula: Close to Muni-ki-Reti, it is another swinging bridge raised a few years ago. It is also called Sivanand Jhula, named after the famous Sivanand Ashram.

Triveni Ghat: Surrounded by temples closer to the city, this is the more popular spot for taking a dip in the Ganga.

Temple of Bharat: The oldest and much talked about temple named after Rama’s brother.

Swarg Ashram: This is the oldest and largest ashram in Rishikesh and all the other ashrams are located in its vicinity. The spiritual atmosphere here provides a balm to the troubled soul. You can even find a few stores and eating joints here.

Neelkanth Mahadev: Despite the bumpy jeep ride, this temple is a must visit. About 12 km uphill from Rishikesh, this temple is where, legend has it, Shiva came to meditate after drinking the poison churned out during the famous amrit manthan, nectar of immortality, by the gods and the demons. You can even trek to the temple. The scenery on the way is beautiful and you can follow the flow of the Ganga.

Eating out: Try the famous Choti Wala restaurant at Swarg Ashram. The kids simply freak out on the big, bulbous man coloured pink and purple, dressed in only a dhoti and an erect choti on his head.

(A lot has changed over the years. But then, I haven’t been to Rishikesh since 2013, so maybe if the trip happens, I will write a separate post on it.)

Getting To Rishikesh

  • By Air: The closest airport is Jolly Grant, about 10 km before Rishikesh on the Dehradun highway. It’s a small airport, and you can catch Uttarakhand roadway’ buses from there or hire a taxi.
  • By Rail: The Rishikesh railway station is right in the heart of town, making it easily accessible.
  • By Road: Rishikesh is well-connected by bus from Dehradun (about 43 km away) and Hardwar (where you can also find auto-rickshaws and cab).

Finding a Place to Stay

Rishikesh offers a wide range of accommodation options, from hotels and guest houses to simple lodges. For a truly immersive spiritual experience, consider staying in an ashram and following their daily routine.

My first trip to Rishikesh was more than just sightseeing; it was a chance to connect with a different kind of energy, to witness the Ganga, and to find moments of solitude. It’s a world that’s difficult to forget, but now, I would explore it differently.

Rishikesh travelogue in Life Positive magazine, November 2000

I’m participating in #BlogchatterA2Z

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This blog post is part of ‘Blogaberry Dazzle’ hosted by Cindy D’Silva and Noor Anand Chawla in collaboration with Ratna Prabha.

51 thoughts on “Rishikesh: My First Meeting With Shiva & Ganga”

  2. Your post reminded me of my visit to Haridwar during 1990s. I was a kid then but the place enchanted me even then. The ganga at Har ki Pauri felt mesmerising and somehow I had the feeling of becoming one with Ganga (No, I didn’t drown myself!) And choti wala, yes I fondly remember the plump man and clicking photos too. Your post made me nostalgic. There is a poetic flow in your post that I simply loved. Incidentally, I am planning a visit to Rushikesh in June and wonder if Parmarth Niketan welcomes outsiders for stays; I’ll definitely look into it.

    Thank you for this beautiful post!

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  3. Your post reminded me of my visit to Haridwar during 1990s. I was a kid then but the place enchanted me even then. The ganga at Har ki Pauri felt mesmerising and somehow I had the feeling of becoming one with Ganga (No, I didn’t drown myself!) And choti wala, yes I fondly remember the plump man and clicking photos too. Your post made me nostalgic. There is a poetic flow in your post that I simply loved. Incidentally, I am planning a visit to Rushikesh in June and wonder if Parmarth Niketan welcomes outsiders for stays; I’ll definitely look into it.

    Thank you for this beautiful post!

    Liked by 1 person

    Reply

  4. Your post on Rishikesh and your first encounter with Shiva and the Ganga really resonated with me. I could almost feel the nervous excitement you described, stepping into the unknown with just a colleague for company. It’s refreshing to see your honest reflection on that trip, not as a polished travelogue but as a genuine exploration of self and place. The way you describe the Ganga’s hypnotic rhythm and her role as a purifier is beautifully evocative. I also appreciated your mention of the ashrams and the Ganga aarti; they truly are the heartbeats of Rishikesh. Your narrative made me nostalgic for my own experiences in that sacred town. I love how you highlighted the shift from idol worship to connecting with the divine through nature. It’s a perspective that many miss. Your journey from Delhi to Rishikesh, with its mix of adventure and introspection, was inspiring. I look forward to reading more of your travel stories.

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  7. Your story about stepping onto those ghats and feeling the vibration of Shiva’s presence hit me hard; it reminded me that some places don’t just show history, they live it. More than travel writing—it was a heart journey through devotion, nature, and deep connection.
    #BlogaberryDazzle 

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  8. Three things .

    1. Your writing is different in this post.When you talk about Rishikesh and Ganga , I can feel a natural abandon and peace in the words as if you have been set free.
    2. The part where you talk about the concept of God being immortalised in an idol was not an ideal one, I wish you had written more about it.Though I agree with you , still I wanted more.
    3. I think Chotiwala restaurant still is very famous there though lot of new ones have cropped.

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    1. It was my first step out of the close confines of my life, beliefs and a lot of things. I enjoyed the river flowing ..and I realised that divinity is in this flow..flow of life and water and air… Religion is for those who follow but divinity is like a vast cosmos, where everything is layered and infinite. But all these have been experiences over the decades that shaped my thoughts. I feel the peace even under a tree, or watching birds, there is something more than us and what we perceive as divine. 😊

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  9. That’s such a good write-up/guide, who would want to visit? In fact, I have not visited Rishikesh before. But love the fact that you have covered most of the things that I would end up searching and searching

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  10. When you visit such places where you feel that superlative power of some or the other natural force, it makes you philosophies everything you were beliving so far. It makes you ask questions. It happened with me when I was visiting Bhutan a few years back. Though it was a crisp work trip, it was thought provoking on a personal level.

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  12. I sighed loudly after reading your post. Somehow, I have not been to Rishikesh or Haridwar or Varanasi. I always wanted to go to Hemkunt Sahib, but it never happened. Wishing right now that it will happen in the near future. Bookmarking your post for the future trip.

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  13. This post feels like a gentle pilgrimage through your words. The way you describe the early-morning aarti, the misty river, and your inner resonance with Shiva really struck a chord with me. A beautifully written homage to a timeless place.

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  14. Though I haven’t visited Rishikesh, your vivid description transported me there. I could almost feel the peace and serenity you experienced. This post makes me long to witness its beauty someday. Thank you for sharing such a soulful glimpse!

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  15. Though I haven’t visited Rishikesh, your vivid description transported me there. I could almost feel the peace and serenity you experienced. This post makes me long to witness its beauty someday. Thank you for sharing such a soulful glimpse!

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  16. Though I haven’t visited Rishikesh, your vivid description transported me there. I could almost feel the peace and serenity you experienced. This post makes me long to witness its beauty someday. Thank you for sharing such a soulful glimpse!

    Like

    Reply

  17. Though I haven’t visited Rishikesh, your vivid description transported me there. I could almost feel the peace and serenity you experienced. This post makes me long to witness its beauty someday. Thank you for sharing such a soulful glimpse!

    Like

    Reply

  18. Though I haven’t visited Rishikesh, your vivid description transported me there. I could almost feel the peace and serenity you experienced. This post makes me long to witness its beauty someday. Thank you for sharing such a soulful glimpse!

    Like

    Reply

  19. Such a heartfelt and nostalgic read! Loved how you captured the innocence of your first solo work trip and the quiet connection with Ganga and nature. Rishikesh really does leave a lasting impression and your words brought that magic alive beautifully.

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  20. This felt like reading someone’s soul steps into Rishikesh! The shy first steps, the hypnotic pull of the Ganga, the gentle knock of Shiva’s presence. The narrative’s honest awkwardness and unexpected wonder made me feel like I was discovering the place alongside you. Truly a refreshing glimpse into a travel memory that changed you.

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  21. This really took me back.. loved how you captured the gentle magic of the Ganga and those first, curious steps into Rishikesh. Felt like I was right there with you, discovering the place through my eyes. Thank you for sharing such a heartfelt journey.

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  22. I am a die-heart Shiva bhakt… since my childhood I dont know why I got attracted towards Shiva, may be with the intention of having a good husband….:) But trust me he guided me so well and even today he is guiding me such an amazing I can proudly say ” Bholenath ha to ma Hu.” I went to Rishikesh-Haridwar for the first time with parents I dont tell me all I could rememeber of this childhood trip was having full of Phoras on my head in the hot summers… so painful was that and even I had fever but still mild memories were there. Then 2nd time was after marraige with in laws for a day out visit not much explored as we need to return back home same day. But in a blissful and peaceful way I explored every corner of Haridwar and Rishikesh in 2023 October when I went with my Son and husband for Mundane. That was indeed a blissful experience and I enjoyed from the core of my heart… Every line of this post remind me of the each corner of the cities… Jai Bholenath. But Ganga Arti was a mess as so much crowd was there with no place to move that actually pained my then 1.5 year old son. Rest it was all good and divine.

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      1. I have always taken a stopover at Rishikesh but truly never experienced it properly. This time I am thinking of staying there for a couple of days and experiencing it slowly. Moreover, I want to meet Shiva there, and it will happen if I sit and talk to him at the riverside. Thanks for your guide.

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  23. I have been to Rishikesh many times, sometimes just to pass by for another destination while other times to relish the calm and peace of the city.

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  24. I love how you didn’t shy from expressing your nervousness. I still haven’t tried going anywhere without family or friends, after reading this I’m definitely wanting to try solo travel. Also the way you took us on this beautiful travel diaries with you felt special and spiritually uplifting. Thank you so much!

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  25. There is something about such places. If you are religious or not, you feel a sense of calm and although some invisible pull. I have not been to Rishikesh and I do want to see the aarti one day.

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  27. rishikesh holds a special place in my life. I have done my first adventure there rafting, then I met husband there. This blog took me to nostalgic lane

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  28. I visited Rishikesh long back as a kid and only have memories that my parents collected through the photos they took there. I believe it has changed a lot now. I’m a religious person and will probably feel God’s presence there, of course in the lap of beautiful nature. Hope we can make that trip soon.

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  30. I have been to Rishikesh some three or four times and I’d still visit the place if I get a chance again. Your post reminds me of all the good times we spent there with my family.

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