Published August 2017· Updated August 2026

Where animals run on the roads, where you can see the sky for miles, where trees sway to embrace you, where innocent smiles and shy faces gaze at you—this is little village of Kohka near Pench Tiger Reserve in Madhya Pradesh

Into the Buffer Zone: Night Safaris and Forest Lore

We clung to the railing of the Gypsy. The blues of the sky were fast turning into darker shades. The cool and refreshing fragrance of tulsi filled the air. In the far distance, our young guide Manoj sighted a deer herd. But we only saw tall green plants and trees.

And then the glinting eyes in the distance, gazing apprehensively, had us almost screaming in delight. Dazed, we didn’t even notice that the forest was silent and dark now, sinister and eerie. This was straight out of a book, almost unreal if it hadn’t been for our hushed voices. This was my first time on a night safari in a jungle. We were in the buffer zone of the Pench Tiger Reserve. It was monsoon and the big, huge leaves of the teak trees gave animals room to hide. Summer safaris are the best, informed both our driver and guide, as the animals can’t hide.

Despite the thick shrubs, we did manage to catch sight of a baby hare. The guide pointed out something moving, said it was a wolf. Trying my best, eyes screwed, I peered into the dark, I didn’t see it. However, I didn’t miss the ‘ghost tree’. This white one shone in the moonlight, hence its name. An hour’s ride in this dark forest and we were back on the road to Kohka Wilderness Camp. Headlights off, the big leaves seemed to be coming towards us. But it was just the mind playing tricks in the dark, for we had seen the greens in the day.

The Rhythm of Kohka Village

The brainchild of Shourabh Ghosh and Sanjay Nagar, the camp offers a simplified way of life. And the short road to the camp gives a clue to what life in village Kohka is like.

While the young men and women work in the paddy fields, small children are left at home with their grandparents.

Hens with their little chicks keep flitting about even as the rooster keeps one alert every few minutes.

The goats laze while small children in the primary school walk in and out of the premises. Lunch for them is at the Anganwadi and they do come dressed in uniforms.

Somewhere in the other lane was a temple and a lake nearby where one can catch fish or wash clothes. Sometimes, smaller animals do come there for water, more so in the summer, I was told.

Majority of the tribals are Gonds and speak Hindi pretty well. They also have their own dialect which is a mix of Dravidian and Hindi script. The neighbourhood comprises Turiya, Teliya and other smaller villages.

The Organic Rush

The mainstay of life here is livelihood related to the earth such as farming, pottery or becoming a naturalist. “The women in the village also make a line of products such as face wash, pickles, bedcovers, turmeric for us,” says Ghosh. A hospitality professional, he has worked abroad for over a decade. And Kohka is where he uses the natural resources and his training to offer a natural, simplistic and comfortable experience.

As the area has abundance of bamboo, you find the camp interlaced with bamboo products—the lamps, the glass and bottle covers, the wall hangings, even the shower nozzle.

The bed is a raised platform with the most comfortable of mattresses.

The food comes straight out of the fresh veggies grown in the garden. There is no set menu, just what’s well cooked. Of course, guests can state their preferences. We enjoyed the tribal fare.

The décor is earthy, unostentatious and birds keep you busy through the day, if you like them. We were there for two days and it revealed a stressless world of simple people.

Clay and Community: The Potters of Pachdhar

One evening, Ghosh took us to the neighbouring village, Pachdhar, where the potters live. Their lives are a revelation of what working with Mother Earth means.

Try taking a lesson in pottery and you will know exactly what I mean. My first attempt at making a pot was more like breaking it. The entire family is involved in the process of making pots.

The mud is collected from the nearby forest, then the women knead it, tread upon it and finally the men make the pot. After that the women take over for the drying and colouring process.

The rains are harder for these people, as the pots do not dry fast. And they have to be kept safe too.

The pots are sold to a middleman.

There are two kinds of wheels—the traditional hand one and electric one, so different kinds are made on the two wheels.

Friends of Wilderness

Kohka is the place to recover from the trauma of being a city dweller. The abundance of greens, forest, flora and fauna soothe the eyes and the soul.

On the road to Pachdhar, we saw wild dogs and a herd of deer.

Of course, the fragile world of Pench does need care. So animals are under the protected sphere. If you see them on the road, do not disturb. Wait till they go.

Shouting, screaming or littering is not welcomed. The natural world reveals its treasures when you make friends with silence.

The idea is to melt into the greens and flow with the breeze, not resist or drown in the digital distractions.

Morning Walks Around Kohka

The camp stands at the edge of the forest. That’s where our morning walk began with naturalist Anil who is a native. Spiders, various species of trees, plants, insects and birds, this was the best way to rev up your body.

Anil’s saga of natural world was endless: ants tend to kill themselves if they are unable to protect their homes from predators. Sad, but true.

The big cats like to walk on river beds, he added as we crossed a passage carved out of a stream.

And the trails are not marked, so getting lost in this maze is an easy task. This is why you need a native with you.

Morning Safari

On another morning, the green safari in the buffer zone had opened the world of langoors, jackals, peacocks and rare birds to us. The black drongos at every corner could not be missed. This little fiery one could drive away the biggest of birds, which my research said was true.

We had hoped to catch a glimpse of the elusive big cat, but alas, it sighted us first and went away. How did we know? We didn’t, the shrieks of the langoors told us that he was nearby. We only spotted a fresh paw embedded in wet mud.

All too soon, the days had ended and it was time to fly back to the concrete jungle. In my bagful of memories lay pictures, night safari, birds, trees and the ability to slow down and feel at home in the green life.

How to reach

Kohka Wilderness Camp is about 100km from Nagpur which is easily accessible by train, air and road. The car can pick you from there.

Best time to go

October to May when the Pench National Park is open. For safaris, it’s best to book in advance as tourists throng the area then. The bookings can be done online or through the camp.

Eat, stay and see

• The area is a paradise for birders and animal lovers. Carry your cameras and walking sticks. Take a good pair of boots and cotton clothing. The camp has mosquito repellents but I advise you to carry some too.
• The camp can organise trips to neighbouring areas as well as camping. You can enjoy a night at a villager’s home, on request, of course.
• Meals are part of the package and you can state your preferences. Liquor is not available but you can buy on the way or ask the camp to help you. We had our pegs of mahua—a chilly and lime cocktail concocted by Shourabh Ghosh. In-room dining is not preferred here.
• Enjoy your time in the recreation room where there are books, games and the sole TV. A swimming pool will soon be ready. Wi-Fi is available.
• Play with MrD, the golden Labrador, and if you want to take your own pets, connect with the camp in advance.
• The camp is solar empowered, so best to use the electricity only when needed.
• The walkways are all sprayed with scorpion and snake repellants, so best to use those and flashlights in the night.
• In case you do miss out on the essentials, the camp can help you with things like toothpastes and toothbrushes. The bathrooms have the soaps, shampoos and conditioners which are also especially made for Kohka.
• First-aid is available but the nearest good hospital is in Nagpur, so do carry your  frequently-needed medicines.
• If you make time, you can see the old churches in Nagpur too—one in the cantonment area and one in Sadar. And take a slow ride back, enjoying the greens and the breeze.

Editorial Disclosure: The author was a guest of Kohka Wilderness Camp. All opinions and photography remain independent.

This travelogue first appeared in Spice Route magazine, September 2017.

Ambica Gulati is a journalist and editor whose work explores global affairs, travel, environment, and the intuitive arts. From short stories to wellness mantras, she focuses on meaningful experiences in a complex world. She has authored books for children, a series of six books on Monuments of the World published by Om Books International.

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