With a heritage going back to the 3^rd century, Bhubaneswar is listed on the UNESCO World Sites list since 2014. I only had a few hours and I couldn’t come back to Delhi without seeing the famous Kalingan temples.

Bhubaneswar, the temple city, is the seat of the government of Odisha. The city is a tourist’s delight with museums, temples, gardens, wide roads, good restaurants and arts and culture. With only 4-5 hours, I couldn’t see or eat a lot, but I did manage to visit three museums, the Kalinga temples and walked around the market after drinking a big glass of fresh pineapple juice. Bhubaneswar was the cradle of the Kalinga School of Temple Architecture.

Long before Bhubaneswar, the capital was the neighbouring Cuttack. I crossed the famous Maritime museum there but didn’t get a chance to go in. The region is a confluence of Jain, Buddhist and Hindu heritage and has over 700 temples. There are Buddhist and Jain sites on the outskirts of Bhubaneswar, but again I was short on time and couldn’t go there. Bhubaneswar was designed by German architect Otto Königsberger in 1946.  It officially became the capital of Odisha on August 19, 1949. The current name of the city stems from Tribhubaneswar, meaning Lord (Eeswar) of the Three Worlds (Tribhuban).

Lingaraj Temple

The presiding deity, Shiva, lives in the magnificent Lingaraj temple complex, a beautiful Kalinga temple dating to the 11^th century. Rising at an imposing height of 180 ft, the main sanctum is surrounded by 150 shrines. This is the heart of the Ekamra Kshetra aka the old town, as stated in the Ekamra Purana, the sacred region of mango groves. The government launched the Ekamra Kshetra Heritage Project in 2019 to put Bhubaneswar on the UNESCO list of world heritage sites.

The Lingaraj Temple complex is only accessible to Hindus and you can’t carry your cameras or leather belongings inside. There is a platform built outside the temple from where you can capture the towering domes. A site with partially excavated temples and monuments is outside the complex, but the guard drives you away if you try to take photographs or linger around.

I walked into the complex and thanks to a priest guide, I did get a peek into the main sanctum without push and shove. The green gardens are breath-taking but most of the complex is cordoned off, which means you can’t see most parts unless you have VIP access. I also brought back prasad in a coconut cup.

Historian James Fergusson (1808-1886) called it ‘one of the finest examples of Hindu temples in India’. There are four main halls: Garba Griha (Sanctum Sanctorum), Yajana Mandapa (hall for prayers), Natya Mandapa (dance and music hall) and Bhoga Mandapa (where Prasad is offered). The marvellous wall carvings left me spellbound.

Lingaraj is ‘Swayambhu’ or a self-originated Shivalinga and is also known as ‘Hari Hara’ or a blend of Shiva and Vishnu. Maybe the rise of Lord Jagannath and the completion of the Lingaraj Temple brought a union of Shaivism and Vaishnavism.

On the north side of the temple is the 1300 ft long and 700 ft wide Bindu Sagar Lake. On the western banks of this lake, lies the beautiful garden of Ekamra Van or a forest of a single mango tree, where Shiva came to meditate.

There are many fruit sellers outside this complex and as I went during spring, I saw blooming flowers as well.

Parasurameswar Temple

Dedicated to Lord Shiva, this is known as the temple where the evolution of Odisha Temple Architecture started. The temple gets its name from Sage Parashuram who did penance here.

 It was built in the 7th century during the reign of the Shailodbhava dynasty. It is the first temple to have Jagamohana or an entrance hall attached with the sanctum sanctorum. We can even see the asta grahas or eight planets on the lintel of the entrance door. The Saptamatrika or the seven powers bestowed on Shakti by the gods are visible here.

 Mukteswar Temple

This is within the same complex as Parasurameswar and is a living temple. And between the two temples one can see the evolution of temple architecture in the state. The movement began with Parasurameswar temple and came of age with this temple. Historians have termed this 10^th century temple as perfection in size and proportion. The temple was most likely constructed during the initial rule of the Somavamsi dynasty who came from Central India.

The intricately carved figurines on the wall, fully ornamented, are reminiscent of the love for the god of liberation. Lord Shiva is Lord Mukteswar, taking us on the path of liberation.

There are many carvings of hermits in meditative poses. The images of Lakulisa, the saint who propagated the Pashupata sect of Shaivism during the 6th century, are also visible. There is a figure of a woman writing a letter, which shows women were literate in those days. However, the signature of the temple is the arched gate or Torana with its exquisite carvings.  

A dance festival is held here annually.

Odisha State Tribal Museum

This is a state-of-the-art green complex with low lying buildings nestling between tall green trees and surrounded by green shrubs and colourful flower beds. The entry is free. It took me on a fascinating tour of the 62 tribes which live in Odisha. I loved walking through to see the jewellery, accessories, gods and goddesses, arts and crafts, clothing and even homes of the tribals. Indigenous communities play such a vital role in preserving Nature and the ecosystems they live in. I even saw some artisans. There is a canteen where visitors can enjoy some tribal fare as well.

Odisha State Museum

The entry fee to this museum is Rs 20 and DSLR fee is Rs 10 (for Indians). The building is spread over three floors and the entry hall has walls painted with history of Odisha, the wars, the maritime history, gods and culture. You will enjoy the gallery with old film posters.

The museum houses many important sculptures discovered across the state, including a bust of Queen Victoria from the 18^th century. It started in l932 with historians, Prof. N.C. Banerjee and Prof. Ghanshyam Dash of Ravenshaw College, Cuttack. The archaeological treasures then had a small space within the College. In l938, it became a Provincial Museum. Initially, only sculptures, terracotta, numismatics, copper plates and specimens of fine arts were kept here.  In l947-48, museum was shifted to Bhubaneswar and became more segmented.

The building also has a reference library, auditorium-Kalamandap-and a guest house.

KALA BHOOMI: ODISHA CRAFTS MUSEUM

Inaugurated in 2018, this building takes you to yesteryears. Local raw materials such as the laterite stone, seen in the oldest monuments of the state, have been used. And the feel is like stepping into the old world. Spread over 13 acres, it has been marvellously designed with open courtyards and breezy walkways. Entry fee is Rs 50 and DSLRs are not allowed. You can only take pictures from your mobile camera.

 It is lavish space divided into two blocks with a display area and a live section. The display area has galleries on handicrafts and handlooms and the live section comprises an open air theatre and workshop zones. There are guided tours and cultural performances in open courtyards. The beauty and serenity of this space wishes you could stay beyond the designated hours. There is a souvenir shop at the exit.

Market Building, Ashok Nagar

There is food, snacks, clothing, toys and more here. Albeit not all is pure Odia, and you do long for the ethnic stuff that is found mostly in smaller towns and rural belts.

How to Reach Bhubaneswar

By Air:  The only international airport in the city is Biju Patnaik International Airport, around 5km from the main city.

By Rail:  Bhubaneswar Railway Station is located around 5 km away from the city centre.

By Road:  Baramunda Bus Station is the main bus terminal.

Getting Around Bhubaneswar The city has taxis, buses, cycle rickshaws and auto rickshaws.

Best Time to Visit Bhubaneswar October to February

Where to stay in Bhubaneswar I stayed at the OTDC hotel. It is a good hotel but the checkout time is 8am, which is odd. You can check other accredited options on the Odisha Tourism Development Corporation site, which will also give you all the information for tourists and a helpline number as well.

This blog post is part of #BlogchatterA2Z 2023 challenge.
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