How a scene in a Bengali web series took me back to Sikkim
I am amazed by memory and how it finds its way in and out of the human brain. Anything can trigger it.
Recently, while watching the Bengali web series Kuheli, I glimpsed a public space with flower-filled pots around which a young inspector was running. A little Google research confirmed my hunch. It was Namchi, a little town in south Sikkim.
Just like that, my memory door opened and I travelled back to circa 2022.
Entering Sikkim along the curvaceous mountain roads from Siliguri, past the heavy-flowing Teesta River, the landscape was greener than I ever expected. This wasn’t a touristy trip. I was covering CSR activities for a coffee table book, excited to experience India’s first fully certified organic state.
That excitement overshot the long hours on winding roads and the dingy hotel.
Namchi is just a transit town for tourists heading to the popular Ravangla. For me, it was bliss, a glimpse into life away from commercial zones.
A hasty cup of tea and I set out to explore. Near the town centre, I found a library shelf behind a tree. While the town had more concrete than I expected as residents embraced the urban bandwagon, a long green road nearby had me almost clapping in delight.
Thick trees, ferns spilling over mountain rocks and wild, colourful flowers made me gasp at every corner. The air felt like pure oxygen.
Even after an hour of walking, I wasn’t tired. I was energised and looked forward to more green moments.
A Walk into the Green
Sikkim is a biodiversity hotspot, a small Himalayan state, the least populous and second smallest state in the country. I call it a mini paradise, home to Kanchenjunga, India’s highest peak and the world’s third highest.
Almost 81% of its geographical area is managed by the forest department, while 35% is protected under Khangchendzonga National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
This small state holds an incredible variety of life: more than 5,000 species of flowering plants, 515 varieties of orchids and 362 types of ferns.
But statistics can only tell you so much.
You have to walk through Sikkim to understand what green really means. It’s best experienced on foot.
The greens come in all shapes, sizes, colours, sizes. It spills over walls, grows between rocks, climbs mountain slopes and appears in flower pots outside modest homes. Most of the times, it simply grows wild, no permission needed.
Nature truly thrives when we don’t mess with it.
When Green Doesn’t Always Mean Water
Yet even in this green paradise, I discovered another layer.
Parts of South and West Sikkim face serious water challenges, with natural springs drying up and monsoon landslides disrupting life and movement. These regions fall in the shadows of clouds, which means the clouds breeze over them and the rain falls on the other side.
During my stay, we travelled to neighbouring villages where ecological work was underway to revive springs and install water tanks, helping local communities sustain their organic farming traditions.
Cardamom plants and grasses for broom-making were also being introduced to supplement household incomes.
It was a reminder that conservation isn’t always about grand forests and spectacular mountains.
Sometimes it is a spring.
A water tank.
A crop.
A plant that gives a family another source of income.
The Sikkim I Remember
A little disappointed, I wished that Namchi wouldn’t lose its green culture under the concrete and desire for urban comforts. Many would call it selfish for I live in a metropolis, but the grass is greener on the other side. Cities tend to concretise humanity, greens keep it alive and thriving.
The people were gentle, living a slow, mindful life.
Sikkim is multilingual and multi-ethnic, with Nepali widely spoken and Hindi common in the towns. Small village squares dot the mountainsides, while colourful Buddhist prayer flags fly high in the wind, giving the landscape the nostalgic charm of a classic fairytale town.
And everywhere, there were flowers.
Perhaps that is what stayed with me.
The idea of living in a land where the sun rises and sets over pristine fairy homes, flowers and a vibrant natural world is heartening enough.
To have the privilege of seeing it every day?
That is the best of life.
Queen of Treasures 
Wow, what a lovely tour of everything green in the state of Sikkim, Ambica. Your photography is stunning and I appreciate all the information you shared about the area. I’ve always been fascinated by the mountainous regions of India. Sikkim seems to have it all–just beautiful! I hope you come back again to share your lovely photography :)
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Thank you for the appreciation. I will keep following your posts and try to come back as often as possible.
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Looks great place, worth visiting 😀
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Welcome. These were great photo choices and I enjoyed reading about your experience.
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Thank you for the appreciation
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Wow – wonderful pictures of green nature in Sikkim. I wanted to go to Sikkim for some hiking since I met an Indian couple who showed me pictures of the area around 20 years ago. I am especially interested in the medicinal plants in the area. I am wondering if there are any guided tours available with this topic.
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It’s a beautiful state with very nice people. It would be best to go with the tourism department. You can check the site.
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One of my friends has her native place in Sikkim and she has agreed to give me a tour over the mountainous regions in and around her hometown. I’m sure she herself didn’t have as much information about the place as mentioned in the tour guide you said above. Looking forward to my trip here and the amazing places I’m about to visit!
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It really gave me goosebumps to see how you talked about breathing fresh air in Namchi and how people didn’t climb mountain as they think its a scared place and no one should pollute it by doing such activity. And, very less I knew about Sikkim but now I have a complete knowledge.
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Glad you found the post useful.
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Truly Ambica… Sikkim has a great diversity in flora and fauna and thankfully many parts of Silkim is naturally intact. Loved your pics. But why was your trip so short? Did you go with the intention of visiting Namchi alone? That means you didn’t visit North Sikkim at all?
Anyway, hope you go again😊.
Everything about your post is like home for me n I am so happy that u noticed that even small houses grow flowers and everyone is passionate about it.
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I hope I do for a longer trip now. It would be wonderful to explore the state. Are you a native?
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I am from Darjeeling Ambica… we r the same ethnicity.
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oh, nature!!!! I’m not sure if it comes with age but I truly appreciate going back/near nature whenever I can. A simple stroll makes me happy like a kid with a new toy. How it relaxes you is one of a kind.
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Probably age and also the green ls are so calming
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I really liked reading your travelogue. One does not have to go to a famous place to find beauty. There is so much beauty in this world. Thanks for sharing a part of it with us. My key take away was how how the locals are preserving the ecosystem whilst learning to sustain themselves. It’s a lot harder to remain organic and put the breaks on temptation to exploit the richness.
I enjoyed looking at the pictures and the map and pouring over the travel details. I like your post.
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I was on a dreamy tour to Sikkim along with you virtually…your narration made me feel being in the midst of the nature and breathing fresh air turning life no less than a heaven. Sikkim is one such state of India with abundance of natural beauty, flora and fauna perfect to welcome any tourist. I heard a lot about the warm hospitality of the people in Sikkim.Yes, its true professional and personal commitments these days are at the peak giving no time for travelling but your post gave me the needed kick to plan something soon for a trip to Sikkim. I am mesmerized by your skills with camera and the pictures you captured. Tremendously talented and blessed.
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I have heard of Sikkim before and I was actually due to visit in the spring of 2020, but then the pandemic came and all my plans fell through. The state, even small, is fantastic because of all the greenery and the national parks. I can only imagine how pretty it must be to walk around in a town where everyone has pots with flowers outside their houses. That’s a way I guess to contrast the concrete jungle that Namchi seems to be, a way for the locals to keep that sacred connection they have with nature.
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Yes. They have a connection, and I hope they keep it that way. At least some of us will experience the pristine beauty.
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That’s indeed high praise Samata. THANK YOU. I hope you do visit the state sometime.
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Sikkim looks to be a nature paradise. I love how it is so green here. The plants are so pretty and lush here as well. Thanks for including a how to get there too. will come in useful
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What a beautiful account of your trip to Sikkim. I had been to Gangtok around 12 years ago and fell in love with Sikkim and its beauty. I couldn’t explore much of the state as I had a toddler with me, but your post makes me want to go back there again. PS: I loved the pics you clicked.
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I loved the state too..the people are nicer than the beautiful Himalayas
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Wow what a beautiful place to visit here, it really looks like paradise to me. It’s wonderful to see all the different types of plants and flowers in this region, they really get to thrive. Would love to visit one day.
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Ur this post is like n ice-cream with cherry on top, the read was informative but the pictures were stunning.
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My cousins visited Sikkim just before the pandemic and have been raving about it. Such a beautiful place. Sometimes the quieter, lesser-known places are more rewarding than tourist hotspots. Love the pics. Those crotons remind me of Agartala where they would grow in the wild. And were so expensive back in Delhi.
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I have yet to see Tripura. It’s on my list.
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We had been to Sikkim in March, 2016 and we loved it. It is cleanest state and so beautiful we fell in love with it and added it to our list of places we would love to visit again. Your pictures of the flower and plants is amazing. I did not know that locals believed Kanchenjunga to be sacred.
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Beautiful pictures. Flowers, greens and butterflies. There are so many tourist attractions in India itself. Would love to visit Sikkim someday.
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I toured Sikkim through your words. An official trip to a small ethereal place is indeed great. I have been to Bhutan and I guess they are very similar. Bagdogra is the last stop and way to Bhutan by road. The flora and fauna look amazing. Your travelogues are a feast to the eye. I am going to Meghalaya and Assam next month and looking forward to it.
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Meghalaya is also beautiful
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Yes, Ambica Sikkim is the cleanest green state. I was surprised when I went there. It feel like you are not in India. Cleanliness, greenery, hospitality, people, different flowers, forest everything amaze me. Love your all pics and thank you for the details. I had not been these places. Will surely check out.
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Yes. Sikkim doesn’t feel like the rest of the country.
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Sikkim has been a preferred destination for tourists of late and we’ve been giving it a thought too. However, I haven’t seen such lovely pictures of the greenery there. Namchi is truly beautiful!
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I have only been to Himachal when we talk of mountains in the North. There was plan pre covid to do a extensive road trip to Spiti and then just wander around where we wanted on our way back to Bangalore. We had thought of Sikkim. Hope I visit it soon….your post brought back the memories of how excited we were.
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You will love Sikkim. I hope you plan a visit soon.
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I’ve always wanted to visit the northeast and after seeing these images, I have to! It looks like a fairytale- the beauty of nature really comes through. Amazing place for sure
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It’s refreshing to hear about a lesser-known destination like Namchi and the efforts being made to sustain the local community. It’s great to see the forest department taking measures to conserve the natural resources in the region and provide support to the natives. The concept of not climbing the mountain due to its sacred significance is fascinating and shows the respect the locals have for their land. The information about the extreme climates in South and West Sikkim is a reminder of the challenges faced by those living in such regions.
This post of yours provides a unique insight into a part of India that is not often talked about and highlights the importance of sustainable development. Thanks for sharing with us.
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It looks so pretty. I would love to visit it one day. In fact, the whole of the northeast is so beautiful. I didn’t know that 81% of Sikkim is under the forest department. Learnt something new today.
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Beautiful pics, Ambica. I can imagine what a beautiful place Sikkim must be with its flowers and plants, fresh air and Kanchenjunga mountain. I really hope I get to visit it someday.
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You would love it for sure
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What a beautiful travelogue! I love Sikkim. I would love to visit in winters, amidst the snow everywhere.
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From your pictures, I can see how green is Sikkim. I never been to Sikkim but really want to explore the place as I heard Sikkim is one of the prettiest place to travel. Amazing post for sure.
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It is truly pretty
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Looks like one the main reasons to visit Sikkim is the beautiful nature. We love hiking and often choose our trails based on flowers. I think we would absolutely love going around in Sikkim as well. Hopefully someday we will be able to visit this area and India in general.
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Yes. The greenery is absolutely mind blowing. You will really enjoy visiting this state.
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I hadn’t heard much of Sikkim beyond Kanchenjunga before (I’d love to do some mountaineering around there). The slower pace of life in Namchi would definitely be my cup of tea.
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I too have visited Sikkim many times before and like you mostly in work. But I did take time away to visit areas in and around Gangtok. Also one solo visit to Namchi which wasn’t much of a concrete jungle then. Would love to go back once to check out the difference. Green is beautiful and Sikkim truly is that. Thanks for this journey with beautiful photographs. The journey though from Siliguri is really exhausting.
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Sikkim is a tourist favorite and a biodiversity hotspot with diverse species of flora and fauna. No wonder people flock to this Himalayan state so often. And it’s nice to learn that it’s a fully organic state in India and home to the towering Kanchenzunga peak. It’s great to know that the natives have been given cardamom plants and water tanks for organic farming to supplement their income and their belief not to climb the mountain to retain its purity.
The serenity of these mountains is so appealing and calming. Spotting native flowers like poinsettias and orchids blooming everywhere is so refreshing. I think Namchi is a great spot on the way to Ravangla. It does give fairy tale vibes
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Hill queens
I love it
After Shimla this is one of the best best,clean,and pleasurable place in india
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What a lovely post! Sikkim has been on my bucket list for many years. Hopefully I will be able to visit it soon.
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